... by Reshmi R Dasgupta
What do Barack Obama and Nelson Mandela have in common — apart
from the obvious? Their choice of bubbly libation after their historic election
victories, of course.
It was not champagne but a non-vintage sparkler from South Africa's Western
Cape region, called Graham Beck Brut NV.
Naturally, its US sales zoomed soon after.
Last month, Sommelier India decided to launch the Women's Wine Circle in New
Delhi with organic Ti AmoProsecco rather than a champagne.
It turned out to be an inspired choice.
The ladies — as is their wont — loved the light lusciousness of the flavour as
much as the light lure of the price tag.
And there was no lightheadedness even after several glasses!
When in doubt go for sparkling wine
When it comes to value for money, there is indeed nothing to
beat a carefully selected sparkling wine, even if sheer familiarity with names
prompts people to veer towards Moet et Chandon or Louis Roederer.
The latter are great choices, but since I believe in the axiom, 'When in doubt,
go for sparkling', only grande marques can prove to be an expensive habit! Even
the most diehard champagne evangelists (and I do know several!) agree it is
better to choose a good sparkling wine than bad champagne, in case the
best-known labels are unavailable.
Getting them to admit that there is such a thing as bad champagne at all is
tough, but they do exist and cause that inevitable headache or acidity apres
coup....
Standard non-vintage marque labels are safe bets
Though standard non-vintage grand marque labels are safe bets,
there is sparkle beyond champagne, even in France.
The very existence of cremant or mousseux sparkling wines, in fact, points to
the popularity of this style, though production methods may differ.
There is clearly something irresistible about fizzy drinks — alcoholic or
otherwise.
Attention to detail
The effervescence of good sparkling wines complements most of
the strong flavours we Indians prefer, regardless of cuisine.
That they are served cold only enhances their appeal in our predominantly warm
climes.
Perfectly chilled bubbly is a far better idea than ice cubes in tepid white or
red wine — an unfortunate 'trend' that has vocal supporters in the west and
India.
Being something of a purist, I baulk at the idea of quaffing copious amounts of
say, a Salon Le Mesnil or even Dom Perignon, with a slap-up Indian or Chinese
meal even if I could afford it.
Their complexities deserve greater attention.
If the idea were to drink something with food from these culinary regions, I
would always go for a good sparkling wine.
And there are a whole lot of reasonably priced bubblies out there; enough of
them, in fact, to bolster the idea that they are not only for
"occasions".
Grapes form backbone of sparkling wines
There's Prosecco, Asti, Franciacorta and red Lambrusco from
Italy, Sekt from Germany and Cava from Spain, the last of which I was
reintroduced to recently at the Spanish embassy in New Delhi.
The major New World wine producing areas also have their versions, from
'California Champagne' to South Africa's Methode Cap Classique sparklers,
besides Australia's fizzies from Tasmania and the Yarra Valley, and South
American bubblies.
Interest in them is somewhat academic here in India due to availability, but
keep them in mind when travelling abroad.
The charm of going beyond the classic Champenois combination of Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay with a dash of Pinot Meunier lies in the fact that other grapes form
the backbone of sparkling wines, which means a more diverse flavour profile.
Also, the all-important second fermentation for the bubbles is often done in
the vats rather than in bottles.
Sweetness test
Prosecco is made from a grape of the same name (also called
Glera), Asti from the Moscato Bianco, Sekt from Riesling and other varietals
and Spanish Cava from Macabeo, Parellada and Xarello grapes.
Interestingly, Franciacorta from Italy uses the same three grapes as champagne
but soil and climate variations ensure a very different sparkling wine! That
said, all sparkling wines are graded according to an ascending order of
sweetness: Brut Natural, Brut, Extra Dry, Sec, Demi-Sec and Doux.
Natural is the driest — which means no sugar or dosage was added after the
yeast sediment was disgorged from the bottle.
Market for sparkling wines in India is minuscule
At the other end of the scale, Doux can have more than 50 gm of residual sugar per litre! Sparkling wine, including champagne, used to be mostly sweet in the early days to mask acidic undertones.
The current reign of the dry 'Brut' bubbly, however, can be ascribed to the preference of the British market for that less sugary style and ultimately the world has followed suit.
At about 94,000 cases, the sparkling wines market in India is still minuscule, and we have our Omar Khayyam, Sula Brut and more.
But what more endorsement of the growing popularity of sparkling wine can there be than the fact that champagne biggie Moet-Hennessy will launch its 'Indian' bubbly Chandon from Nashik this year?